Clean Aztecs, Dirty Spaniards
This article was kindly written specially for us (well, we helped a little with the Aztecs bit...) by Katherine Ashenburg, prize-winning non-fiction author, lecturer and journalist. Her latest book, ‘The Dirt on Clean’, is a social history of Western cleanliness, which ‘holds a welcome mirror up to our intimate selves...’
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Pic 1: Some of the remaining ‘chinampas’, Xochimilco, near Mexico City (Click on image to enlarge) |
Many things about Aztec civilization amazed the Spanish Conquistadores, including their intensive, highly productive agricultural system of chinampas or ‘floating gardens’ (Picture 1), and the size and sophistication of their great city Tenochtitlan (Picture 2). At a time in Europe when street cleaning was almost non-existent and people emptied their overflowing chamber pots into the streets as a matter of course, the Aztecs employed a thousand public service cleaners to sweep and water their streets daily, built public toilets in every neighbourhood, and transported human waste in canoes for use as fertilizer.
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Pic 2: The city of Tenochtitlan - painting by Luis Covarrubias, National Museum of Anthropology, Mexico City (Click on image to enlarge) |
While London was still drawing its drinking water from the polluted River Thames as late as 1854, the Aztecs supplied their capital city with fresh water from the nearby hill of Chapultepec by means of two aqueducts, the first built by Netzahualcóyotl between 1466 and 1478, the second some 20 years later by the ruler Ahuitzotl. The symbolic importance of water to the Aztecs is clear from their (metaphorical) word for ‘city’ - altepetl which means literally ‘water-mountain’ in Náhuatl.
The aqueducts were described by Hernán Cortés in 1520: Along one of the causeways to this great city run two aqueducts made of mortar. Each one is two paces wide and some six feet deep, and along one of them a stream of very good fresh water, as wide as a man’s body, flows into the heart of the city and from this they all drink. The other, which is empty, is used when they wish to clean the first channel. Where the aqueducts cross the bridges, the water passes along some channels which are as wide as an ox; and so they serve the whole city.
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Pic 3: Stylized image of Aztec daily life: detail of mural by Regina Raúll ‘Paisaje Mexica’, 1964, National Museum of Anthropology, Mexico City (Click on image to enlarge) |
But probably nothing seemed more bizarre to the Spaniards than the Aztec attitude to personal hygiene. In a word, they valued cleanliness. The conquistador Andres de Tapia reported, in a tone of wonder, that Montezuma bathed twice a day. He did, but there was nothing extraordinary about that for an Aztec, since everybody, according to the Jesuit historian Francisco Javier Clavijero, ‘bathed often, and many of them every day’ in the rivers, lakes or pools.
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Pic 4: Copalxocotl (‘soap-tree’) (Left); Xiuhamolli (soap plant) (Middle & Right) - L & M: Badianus Manuscript (pls 104 & 11), R: Florentine Codex Book 11 (Click on image to enlarge) |
They lacked true soap but made up for it with the fruit of the copalxocotl, called the ‘soap-tree’ by the Spanish, and the sticky root of the xiuhamolli or soap-plant [Saponaria Americana]; both gave a lather rich enough to wash body and clothes. The encyclopedic Florentine Codex, written with Aztec informants shortly after the Conquest, includes a small illustration and description of the amolli soap plant (see Picture 4): It is long and narrow like reeds. It has a shoot; its flower is white. It is a cleanser. The large, the thick [roots] remove one’s hair, make one bald; the small, the slender ones are cleansers, a soap. They wash, they cleanse, they remove the filth.
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Pic 5: Washing hair; Florentine Codex, Book 2 (Click on image to enlarge) |
Their documents also make frequent mention of deodorants, breath fresheners and dentifrices. (Spaniards of the time cleaned their teeth with urine.) As well as bathing in lakes and rivers, the Aztecs cleaned themselves – often daily – in low sauna-like hot-houses. An external fire heated one of the walls to red-hot, and the bather threw water on the baking wall, creating steam. As in a traditional Russian steam bath, the bathers could speed up perspiration by thrashing themselves with twigs and grasses. Almost every building had such a bath-house or temazcalli, used for medical treatments and ritual purifications as well as ordinary grooming (Picture 6).
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Pic 6: Aztec ‘temazcalli’ bathhouse; Codex Tudela folio 62r (Click on image to enlarge) |
As Jacques Soustelle has written: ‘A love of cleanliness seems to have been general throughout the population’: the Florentine Codex hints at the importance placed on personal hygiene in documenting the instructions given by an Aztec father to his daughter:-
[In the morning] wash your face, wash your hands, clean your mouth... Listen to me, child: never make up your face nor paint it; never put red on your mouth to look beautiful. Make-up and paint are things that light women use - shameless creatures. If you want your husband to love you, dress well, wash yourself and wash your clothes.
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Pic 7: Dortmund - a town in the centre of Europe in the Middle Ages |
Into this hygienically enlightened place thundered the Spaniards. The 16th century was one of the dirtiest periods in European history, and on top of that, the Spaniards had their own unique distrust of cleanliness. Europe in general had gone from a culture where people enjoyed a regular trip to the town or neighbourhood bath-house to a culture that shunned water as dangerous.
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Pic 8: The Black Death - illustration from the Toggenburg Bible, 1411 (Click on image to enlarge) |
The catalyst was the Black Death of 1347, a plague that would ultimately kill at least one out of every three Europeans. When Philippe VI of France asked the medical faculty of the University of Paris to pronounce on this terrifying occurrence in 1348, they wrote that hot baths, which created openings in the skin, allowed disease to enter the body. Bath-houses all over Europe were closed and for four or five hundred years people avoided water as much as possible. For those who wanted to think of themselves as clean, a fresh linen shirt for a man and a fresh chemise for a woman was considered safer and even more effective than water. Louis XIV of France only bathed twice in a long, athletic life but he was regarded as unusually ‘clean’ because he changed his linen shirt twice a day.
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Pic 9: ‘Bed bugs and head lice’ - from Hortus Sanitatis, Strassburg, 1499 (Click on image to enlarge) |
The 16th-century Spaniards inherited that pan-European fear of water, but they had an additional, peculiarly Spanish aversion to cleanliness. Like every other part of the Roman empire, they had had their own well-patronized bath-houses. But when the Visigoths conquered Spain in the 5th century, they scorned hot baths as effeminate and weakening, and they demolished the bath-houses. By the time the Moors invaded the country in 711, the Spanish had lost the old, bath-loving link. At that point, they saw the Moors’ well-washed ways as part of their heretical convictions, and their own dirtiness as a Christian virtue. (Some early Christians had regarded cleanliness as a dangerous luxury, along with good food, wine and sexual enjoyments, and tried to abstain from it; Spain continued in this austere tradition longer than most.)
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Pic 10: Part of the recently restored Moorish Baths dating from 1333-1374, now in the Gibraltar Museum |
Arab Spain sparkled with water, whether in fountains, pools or hundreds of bath-houses. Christians in the north of Spain, not under Arab rule, continued to revel in their squalor, washing ‘neither their bodies nor their clothes which they only remove when they fall into pieces,’ according to a contemporary observer. The more their Arab conquerors washed, the more suspicious, decadent and un-Christian the practice seemed to the Spaniards, and their dislike endured long after the Arabs had left.
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Pic 11: Diego Rivera’s critical view of the role of the Spanish church in Colonial Mexico - part of his mural of Mexican history, National Palace, Mexico City (Click on image to enlarge) |
Richard Ford, a 19th-century English traveller who knew Spain well, spoke for many when he connected a centuries-old Spanish distaste for washing with the Moorish occupation. He wrote:-
The mendicant Spanish monks, according to their practice of setting up a directly antagonistic principle [to the Arabs], considered physical dirt as the test of moral purity and true faith; and by dining and sleeping from year’s end to year’s end in the same unchanged woolen frock, arrived at the height of their ambition, according to their view of the odor of sanctity, the olor de santidad. This was a euphemism for ‘foul smell,’ but it came to represent Christian godliness, and many of the saints are pictured sitting in their own excrement.
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Pic 12: Cardinal Cisneros; the ruins of the Moorish Baths at Ronda (Click on image to enlarge) |
Cardinal Jiménez de Cisneros, himself a Franciscan - wrote Ford - persuaded King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella to close and abolish the Moorish baths after their conquest of Granada. They forbade not only the Christians but the Moors from using anything but holy water. Fire, not water, became the grand element of inquisitorial purification.
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Pic 13: Traditional Moorish baths (Click on image to enlarge) |
Sure enough, one of the first things the Spaniards did during the Reconquest was to destroy the Moorish baths (just as the Visigoths had destroyed the Roman ones). Even after that, suspicions remained: Moors who converted to Christianity were forbidden to bathe. During the Inquisition, one of the worst things that could be said about Jews as well as Moors was that they were ‘known to bathe.’ As Richard Ford noted, these attitudes were still current in the 19th century. He tells the story of the Spanish Duke of Frias, who visited an English lady for a fortnight and ‘never once troubled his basins and jugs [on his washstand in his bedroom]; he simply rubbed his face occasionally with the white of an egg.’ This, Ford assures us, was the only ablution used by Spanish ladies in the time of Philip IV, and apparently it was good enough for the Duke.
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Pic 14: The meeting of Spanish and Aztecs outside Tenochtitlan - a folding screen mural by Roberto Cueva del Río (Click on image to enlarge) |
Imagine, then, the redolence of the conquistadores, after weeks of close confinement in a ship, on arrival in a hot country. To make the contrast between the Spaniards and Aztecs even more stark, the Aztecs, being originally Asian, had many fewer merocrine glands than Westerners, and those are the glands that produce sweat. Asians will tell you that even a very clean Westerner smells strong to an Asian nose, so the fragrance of the unwashed conquistadores must have been ... impressive if not downright disgusting to the Aztecs. Small wonder that they responded by fumigating the Spaniards with incense as they approached. The Spaniards took it as an honour, but for the Aztecs it was a practical necessity...
Sources/further reading (Aztecs)
• The Badianus Manuscript (Codex Barberini, Latin 241) (original in Vatican Library): An Aztec Herbal of 1552 - intro, trans & annotations by Emily Walcott Emmart, John Hopkins Press, Baltimore, 1940
• The Florentine Codex, Book 11 - Earthly Things - trans by Charles E. Dibble and Arthur J.O. Anderson, University of Utah, Part XII, 1963
• Aztec Medicine, Health and Nutrition by Bernard R. Ortiz de Montellano, Rutgers University Press, 1990
• An Aztec Herbal: The Classic Codex of 1552 - trans & commentary by William Gates, Dover Publications, 1939/2000
• Daily Life of the Aztecs by Jacques Soustelle, Stanford University Press, 1961 (English trans)
• Handbook to Life in the Aztec World by Manuel Aguilar-Moreno, Facts on File, 2006
Sources/further reading (Europe)
• Katherine Ashenbug, Clean: An Unsanitised History, Profile Books, 2008
• John A. Crow, Spain: The Root and the Flower (Harper and Row, 1963)
• Erna Paris, The End of Days: A Story of Tolerance, Tyranny, and the expulsion of the Jews from Spain (Lester, 1995).
Picture sources
• Pics 1, 3 & 14: Photos by Ian Mursell/Mexicolore
• Pics 2 & 11: Photos by Sean Sprague/Mexicolore
• Badianus Manuscript images scanned from our own copy of the 1940 facsimile edition (see above)
• Florentine Codex (original in the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Florence): images scanned from our own copy of the Club Internacional del Libro 3-volume facsimile edition, Madrid, 1994
• Codex Tudela image scanned from our copy of the Testimonio Compañía Editorial facsimile edition, Madrid, 2002
• Pic 7: from Medieval Life and People (Clip Art) - Dover Publications, New York, 2007
• Pic 8: from Wikipedia/Black Death
• Pics 9 & 13: courtesy Wellcome Library, London
• Pic 10: from the Gibraltar Museum website
• Pic 12 (left): from Wikipedia/Cardinal Cisneros
• Pic 12 (right): photo courtesy Barry Liimakka
This article was uploaded to the Mexicolore website on Sep 21st 2008
Here's what others have said:
21 At 6.52am on Sunday January 7 2024, Victor flores wrote:
The ones commenting their justification for Spaniard filth have not cited their sources; in other words, they’re information is illegitimate and emotional at best.
20 At 6.45am on Sunday January 7 2024, Victor flores wrote:
Very engaging read; it is such a delight uncovering the other half of my identity that refuses to be forgotten. It is bittersweet but encouraging to know that there are people sacrificing their time and effort to preserve our long lost culture. Thankyou!
19 At 2.12pm on Saturday December 11 2021, Pcc wrote:
Biased article full of myths, nonsense claims and inacurate info. Firstly you use some anecdotes of a random english traveler of the 19th century (who wasn’t even an historian) and his nonsense baseless claims as a source for saying the spanish were smelly and dirty instead of actual historical documents. You even go as far as to say, based on that traveler baseless claims, that Cardenal Cisneros banned bathing to converts, that dirtiness was seen as purity by the spanish monks or that the worst it could be said of the jews and moors is that they bathed which are all complete nonsense claims that are not supported by any historical evidence. Not to add that many of your claims like when you say that the christians of the north of Spain didn’t wash, you don’t even give any source for them, revealing how flawed this article is. Secondly you say that aztecs fumed the spaniards with incense as they approached for their smell which is another myth because it’s only mentioned that the aztecs lit incense when the emperor met the spaniards probably because it was a ritual practice when meeting the emperor considering it was lit before they could even know how the spaniards smelled, not because they stank. Also i doubt the mexicas minded if the spaniards smelled or not because there are archeological evidence that some spanish conquistadors were eaten by mexicas ????. Thirdly, the claim that the spaniards refused bathing because it was associated with the moors it’s another nonsense claim with no historical evidence
Mexicolore replies: Had you bothered even to Google the ‘random english traveler of the 19th century’ you would find that Wikipedia notes that Richard Ford’s ‘Handbook for Travellers in Spain’ (1845) has been ‘described as one of masterpieces of the travel literature genre’.
It’s so easy to try to rubbish someone’s article without supplying a single piece of contrary ‘evidence’. Please have the decency to back up your constant claims of ‘baseless nonsense’ by providing your own ‘historical evidence’. Otherwise, who is going to believe you rather than this prize-winning author...?
18 At 2.33pm on Saturday June 19 2021, Maria wrote:
very infomative!
17 At 7.14am on Friday December 11 2020, Rebecca Olivares wrote:
Wonderful article! I’m American and have lived in Mexico City and have studied Mesoamerican history extensively. What’s interesting is if you observe carefully, here in Mexico City, many of the cleanliness habits still show themselves in present day. For example, a few years back I wrote an article on the extreme cleanliness of bathrooms across this city (one of the largest & most populated in the world). I went around to different restaurants (and none of the, upscale) to take pictures of their bathrooms at random times...they were always incredibly shiny, well stocked, ever lacking in soap, etc. I’ve also lived in London, Hamburg & Barcelona and have traveled extensively in Europe...you just do not find the level of cleanliness there that you do here. Upon arriving in CDMX, I was connected to a wealthy family in Coyoacan (husband & wife were both scientists and worked for multinational Pharma companies). I told them about the blog I was writing on the bathroom topic and the gentlemen said “I’ve never experienced dirtier bathrooms in the world—he was also very well traveled—than those I came across in Paris. They just do not have a bathroom culture (no tienen cultura de baño).” Id never heard that term... but I now understood that spotless bathrooms are a deeply embedded part of the culture. Likely goes back to the Aztecs having an extensive network of public bathrooms.
Mexicolore replies: Many thanks - very interesting observations!
16 At 3.45pm on Friday November 6 2020, Addy Flores wrote:
Buen día, me gustaría saber si tienen más información sobre la fotografía del mural en biombo de Roberto Cueva del Río. Quiero saber dónde se localiza actualmente y en qué fecha fue pintado. Es para una cita. Agradezco su ayuda.
Mexicolore replies: ¡Hola! Creemos fue fue pintado en 1976. La fotografiamos en el Poliforo Siqueiros en 1983 (+o-). Lamentablemente desconocemos su paradero actual...
15 At 1.51am on Saturday October 10 2020, Karina wrote:
Very informative article I really liked it. I used to work with a Spanish coworker and I am sure she rarely took baths because her hair was always greasy and she smelled really bad. Made me wonder if that’s still a Spanish thing nowadays.
Mexicolore replies: Be careful with such sweeping generalisations! We single out Spain for obvious historical reasons, but really for ‘Spain’ read ‘The whole of Europe’...
14 At 3.37pm on Thursday August 13 2020, Xixo wrote:
Muy mal documentado y apesta a leyenda negra anti española. Si se escribe un articulo histórico hay que documentarse mejor. Por cierto qué hacían los aztecas con los cientos de miles de humanos que sacrificaban? Es un “pequeño” detalle que no cuenta. Y quiénes construyeron el alcantarillado y redes hidraulicas? Los españoles
Sobre el tema en España..... Podía ser así después de los godos, pero la única fuente que utiliza para ilustrar una historia de 15 siglos es la de un viajero del siglo XIX?
Normal que los conquistadores fueran sucios, si habían viajado 3 meses en barcos de vela y luego se establecieron en fuertes que luego transformaron en ciudades
Mexicolore replies: Ehem... ‘badly documented’ you say. Er, where are you getting your figure of ‘hundreds of thousands of Aztec human sacrifices’ from?! This brings immediately to mind the Biblical saying ‘First, remove the beam out of your own eye, and then you can see clearly to remove the speck out of your brother’s eye.’
13 At 3.30am on Tuesday July 7 2020, Manuel wrote:
Hello! I was wondering which source was used to uncover information about the xiuhamoli plant/Saponaria Americana? Many sites state that none of the saponaria plants are endemic to the americas so I was wondering if maybe it was a mistake? Ipomoea murucoides is also a plant with soap-like features that has white flowers. I’d like to know as I am very curious. Thank you for the post~~ 3
Mexicolore replies: No mistake! As mentioned in the caption to picture 4 above, there are clear references to the xiuhamolli plant/Saponaria Americana in both the Florentine Codex and the Badianus Manuscript, listed in ‘Sources/further reading (Aztecs)’ above.
12 At 7.48pm on Sunday April 5 2020, Reggie Rendon wrote:
The Aztecs did not have public servants. But slaves bought or captured in war. Slavery was very common in the America’s. When the Spaniard’s reach Tenochtitlan. They stunk horrible. They did not defeat a 250k mexica Army. But defeated them with biological warfare. And more than 100k allies. There’s alot of information missing. Research a little more
Mexicolore replies: Thanks for your (albeit we consider slightly garbled) contribution...
11 At 3.51pm on Sunday December 15 2019, Temilotzin wrote:
Ha! Knew there was something off about the Spanish! Thanks again for proving the superiority of the Mexica!
10 At 6.00pm on Sunday February 10 2013, Bill wrote:
Do you know if the Aztecs painted their canoes? I’m trying to model one. Thank-you.
Mexicolore replies: We’ve now answered this question, in the ‘Ask Us’ section of the site (left hand menu). The short answer appears to be ‘Yes’!
9 At 1.18am on Wednesday January 4 2012, hood wrote:
i was born on july 6th 1994 so what does that mean in the aztec calendar also in england uk where your website is at how many people actually know Nahuatl and spanish are aztecs well known over there
Mexicolore replies: For your birthdate equivalent, best to go to www.azteccalendar.com (they use our beautiful Aztec daysign glyps!). There are we think only a handful of people in the UK that know Nahuatl; Spanish is a common language here (though not nearly as common as in the USA); the Aztecs are studied by hundreds of primary schools as part of the history curriculum (that’s where a lot of our work comes from...!)
8 At 5.51am on Tuesday January 3 2012, hood wrote:
its me again do you know if aztecs had toilets or what did they use if you know please let me know
Mexicolore replies: We know that the Aztecs had no public drainage system in Tenochtitlan. On the other hand we also know that every public road had public toilets dotted along them, shielded from public view with reed matting - they were basically a hole dug in the ground - and that they collected human poo and used it as a fertilizer in their farming.
7 At 5.30am on Tuesday January 3 2012, hood wrote:
i like your website but why is your website saying my people the aztec/mexica were originally asian we migrated from southwestern U.S. last time i checked that was north america
Mexicolore replies: Yes, but where did you come from before that?! It’s an interesting and fair point to raise, but we understand most anthropologists today believe the first Americans arrived by canoe along the Pacific Coast long before the last Ice Age and the Bering Strait opening. The Pre-Clovis arrival has been proven. You guys are certainly very ancient!
6 At 9.26am on Thursday December 22 2011, Gerardo Morales wrote:
I’m MEXICAN, this site is WONDERFULL, I want to thanks to all people that make it possible. This information helps to have a rigth vission of the many cultures before the spaniards came.
Thanks a lot.
Mexicolore replies: Thank YOU, Gerardo, for your generous comments, which inspire us to do more...
5 At 10.17am on Sunday May 22 2011, otirudam wrote:
I was trying to find a place to leave a message about this marvelous site, and i guess i will leave it here.I live in Mexico and prehispanic culture is almost forgotten or neglected by the majority of people. Mexicolore is a stupendous site for all those that love mexican antiquities and wish to understand and dwell on them deeper. Thanks to u is not enough. Eternal gratitude to all that make Mexicolore possible. Seriously!
Mexicolore replies: MANY thanks for such uplifting words. Believe us, it’s feedback and encouragement like yours that keep us going - we mean it!
4 At 12.38am on Thursday December 16 2010, Azcatl wrote:
That would explain the misconception the Spainards had about being treated like Gods, it was not because they were Gods the Tenocha burned incense (as is the custom in the Catholc church) around them, it was because they must have been pretty ripe after a few sweaty months in the tropics.
3 At 6.56am on Sunday September 12 2010, Anastasia Kalyuta wrote:
Being quite aware about the risk to provoke ire of other users, I have to say just for reasons of historical objectivity that in certain cases the Mexica, especially Mexica women, were obliged to go as unwashed and dirty as their Spanish contemporaries. Hygienic procedures were strictly forbidden during the days of mourning for male relatives who died in combat, and in this case the period of mourning lasted 80 days. So, one can imagine how these sad widows, sisters and mothers looked like by its end. According to well-known native chronicler Hernando Alvarado Tezozomoc, the grandson of Motecuhzoma Xocoyotzin, bathing was prohibited for wives of warriors, whose husbands went to war. In this case describing rituals, performed in Tenochtitlan after departure of Mexica forces, Tezozomoc notes: “And from that day the women didn’t wash their faces, nor hands, nor their heads, and didn’t bathe themselves and had their faces, hands and legs very dirty and greasy” - y las mugeres todas desde aquel día no se lauauan las caras y manos, ni la cabeza ni se bañaban , que tenían las caras, manos y piernas bien suzias, mugrientas (See for example, Alvarado Tezozomoc H. Crónica Mexicana cap. 77, 2001 Madrid: DASTIN, Historia, p. 330)
Of course, these were “extraordinary” life circumstances but if we remember that wars were frequent in Prehispanic times... Also this prohibition of any hygienic procedures was obligatory for those priests, who were supposed to be in direct contact with gods.
Mexicolore replies: Thanks, Anastasia, for pointing to these exceptional circumstances when ‘dirt ruled’...
2 At 1.45am on Thursday September 2 2010, alberto wrote:
My, what a lovely article. For centuries after the recomiendas were smashed by Mexico’s cheating power hungry Spaniards Mexico’s history was rewritten by them to demoralize and steal the soul from the people who worked hard to make peace, who tried to share in the beauty of their cities and land. May the creator bless you!
Mexicolore replies: We’re not sure what you mean by ‘recomiendas’ (sounds like ‘encomiendas’ but these were themselves colonial arrangements forced onto the local population...) but many thanks for the kind comments!
1 At 11.29am on Wednesday February 11 2009, CARLOS BRISOLA MARCONDES wrote:
Dear sir, I have just finalized my new book on diseases transmitted and caused by arthropods, in Portuguese, with 35 chapters. Each chapter has a small figure under its number. The only chapter still without such illustration is the one on the influence of human behaviour on disease occurrence. I would greatly appreciate if you could authorize the utilization of "Pic 5: Washing hair; Florentine Codex, Book 2" for this. If you authorize this utilization, this would be recognized in the Acknowledgements section. I doubt there would be a way to the editor paying for this utilization. Sincerely yours Prof. dr. Carlos Brisola Marcondes Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina Florianópolis (SC) Brasil.
Mexicolore replies: Usually we tell picture researchers that we cannot give authorisation to reproduce images that we have scanned from codices, since legally we are not the original copyright-holders (even though the scans are ours), but in these circumstances I cannot believe anyone would place an obstacle in your path. Please accept our authorisation in good faith for this specific use!